Archive for 2010

Cut Out

Posted: 31st December 2010 by asteriskr in Rallye 16v
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So last back in 2008 when I first had the car I did some tidying up of the inner wing and essentially buried some pretty ropey metal work in filler. Today it was time to reveal the true extent of the rot! On a positive note the repair job had held up pretty well in the interim :rolleyes:


It didn’t look too bad at first, but then I took the underseal off the inside of the arch and the true swiss cheese nature was revealed. Only one thing for it – it’s got to be chopped out. Marked out a cut line back to the good steel, drilled/ground out the spot welds then introduced the angle grinder!


Need to make up a cardboard template next.

The bits arrived from SimTek today for the loom. These are the SureSeal Connectors for the Jenvey TPS and the Lambda and the Bulkhead Connector:





Posted: 29th December 2010 by asteriskr in Rallye 16v
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Colin Satchell and Sandy Brown have developed a long lever rose-jointed quick shift kit for the 106. This is it:



Affectionately known in 106 circles as the SatchShift kit, Colin sent it on the 10th December and it’d then been jammed in the Christmas post. It’s nicely made down to the grease nipples on the rose joints. I’m looking forward to getting it trial fitted and using it once the car is back on the road.


Posted: 28th December 2010 by asteriskr in Rallye 16v
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Not huge progress really but I am starting to learn how to weld which will enable me to crack on with the rest of the bodywork that needs doing. Much more practice needed, but the advice from the seasoned professionals over at the MIG Welding forum is proving invaluable.

Welding Practice: Day One

I was also lucky enough to get these as a Christmas present from my wonderful wife so I’ve now ordered up the ITT Neptune connectors to run through the bulkhead for the engine bay loom.

Crimping Tool


Posted: 19th December 2010 by asteriskr in Rallye 16v
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The final silicon hoses arrived for the engine from BakerBM. These connect the block to the bulkhead connectors that feed the heater matrix.


I’m also nearly ready to get welding. The PortaMig is here, just waiting on some consumables and leather protective gear to get started.

POR15 Whitecote

Posted: 14th December 2010 by asteriskr in Rallye 16v
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This is reference material for my intended use of POR-15 as the final finish in the engine bay:

Product Description
Whitecote Paint is a high-gloss extreme durability topcoat that can be applied over a number of surfaces, including heavy-duty vehicle chassis and trailers, floor pans, agricultural machinery, and many marine applications as well, including motors, heat exchangers, pumps, masts, decks, and hand rails. Whitecote coatings can also be used to protect equipment from strong acids, alkali, and other aggressive materials.

It can be applied over existing single and two-component primers as well as in a complete POR-15 paint application which would include POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint as a primer and POR-15 Self-Etching Primer as an intermediary coat. Whitecote coatings will not leave brush marks and will dry in less than an hour but will take 3 or 4 days to fully cure. Like many other POR- 15 coatings, Whitecote is a moisture-cured coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture.

Product Composition
Whitecote consists of two items:

  1. A blue paint can, labeled Whitecote, which contains the basic resin formulation.
  2. A smaller light blue can, labeled Hardener/Activator.

Warning: Your can of Hardener/Activator is sealed tightly. Remove the lid carefully and cover with a paper towel while prying off inner seal to avoid accidental spillage or splash. Your Hardener/Activator is very sensitive to moisture and humidity, so open it in a dry area. Keep both hardener and resin tightly capped when not in use. This is very important for maximum shelf life.

Mix 1 part Hardener/Activator with 4 parts Whitecote in a separate, re-sealable container. A clean glass jar works well as does a clean paint can with lid. Stir the combined contents thoroughly. When the coating is thoroughly mixed, thin as required.

You may mix partial quantities of Whitecote for small jobs, and you may use any measuring device you happen to have around (coffee scoop, measuring spoons, cups etc.). All you have to do is follow this formula:

Mix 1 part Hardener/Activator with 4 parts  Whitecote.

Whitecote Paint has a long pot life, up to 8 hours, if the lid is kept on the mixed batch when it is not in use.

Use as Part of a Complete POR-15 Paint System
Apply two coats of POR15 Rust Preventive Paint over a sandblasted surface or a surface prepared with Marine Clean and Metal Ready. Then apply one light to medium coat of POR15 Self-Etching Primer as soon as POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint has cured to ensure maximum adhesion. Allow POR15 Self-Etching Primer to cure for 30 Minutes at 68°F (20°C), or longer in cooler temperatures. Apply Whitecote as final finish. If surface has any irregularities that you wish to remove, apply a medium coat of TieCoat Primer over the cured POR15 Self Etching Primer. Allow this to cure for 2 to 3 days, then sand smooth and finish with 300 grit. Wipe down with dry tack cloth and apply Whitecote.


Apply a minimum of 2 medium coats for general automotive use, and a minimum of 3 full coats for heavy marine and industrial use. Whitecote may be applied by brush, spray, or roller. You can use any type of brush you prefer; Whitecote will flow out immediately, eliminating brush marks.

  • Lay down a medium covering coat, but be careful to avoid runs. A second coat may be applied when dry to the touch, usually 15 – 20 minutes later, though the second coat may be left up to 2 days before re-coating without sanding. Best method: recoat at 2–3 hourly intervals.
  • In temperatures below 64°F (18°C), drying times will be extended and consequently runs may be more likely. To minimize this in colder temperatures, small items can be warmed with a heat gun, or air temperature raised for larger items. Do not overheat items above 75°F (24°C).
  • Thin only with Xylene, if thinning is needed. POR15 Solvent or lacquer thinner may be used for cleanup. Whitecote may be thinned up to 25%, though you will need more coats to retain dry film thickness.

When applying a second or third coat by brush, surface tension may increase between coats. To reduce this tension, add some solvent to the mix so the coating will drop and flow out properly. For best results, apply at 68–75°F (18-24°C) with less than 70% humidity.

Whitecote will not perform as specified until it has cured for a minimum of 4 days at an average temperature of no less than 68°F(18°C). For example: Do not put engine parts into service before the 4 day cure time. Elevated temperatures will not speed up cure, so do not oven bake parts.