New compensator arrived on Tuesday with an adjustment screw. The new spring that the adjustment screw threads into is on a long back order from Peugeot.
Painted the body of the compensator up to give it some rust protection and then took off the old one. The two M12 unions came off okay once the M10 pipes were removed and I could get a pair of Vise Grips on them to break them loose.
…and fitted the new one.
The old adjustment spring cleaned up okay so I was able to re-use it (phew):
Fitted it and coated it in grease to offer some protection.
I didn’t post any pictures of the spare wheeel cage finished, so here it is. I am just waiting for a second hand jack and carrier box to arrive
Dropped the car off for another test on Wednesday morning, but it failed again. The rear brakes only recording 20% reduction when it needs to be 50-60%. The percentage figures are for the brake force exerted by the rear brakes on the rollers at the MOT station. So I knew that I had to wind the adjustment screw into the spring more which should allow more fluid to the brakes.
In theory, with a height of 210 mm from the jacking point mouldings on the sill in front of the rear wheels to the ground, then the spring is meant to be adjusted to give 1mm play between the lever and the screw head. I didn’t do this last night as there is no easy way to check this once the car is back on the deck with the wheels fitted I just matched the adjustment to how it was on the old parts that came off.
As far as I can see the valve is operated by the hydraulic pressure forcing its way through the valve and opposing the spring force. The greater the hydraulic force (greater I press the pedal) the greater the valve tries to close itself down and shut, with only the retaining spring opposing it when the main spring is removed and with both opposing it when it is in place and correctly adjusted and the more heavily loaded the car the greater the force to oppose the valve so the greater the braking force.
After a bit of faffing about with tape measures and two car jacks, I managed to hit the recommended adjustment then wound it in a little more. At 210mm from the floor to the rear jacking points on the sills, it is 270mm from the trailing arm bump stop faces to the floor with the standard wheels and suspension fitted. Wound it in too much in the photo below and had to back it off a bit.
Raining here yesterday, but took it out for a road test on the private road and it was locking up the rears more than before so I hoped that had done the trick. The rear end is not trying to overtake the front so that’s okay.
Full MOT retest today and it passed. Looks like the adjustments last night were all that was needed.
R E S U L T
Had to pay for another MOT but to be frank I just wanted the VOSA certificate so was past caring. So few jobs to tidy her up, but thank god that’s over. I bought this car on the 15th August with the aim of getting it ready in two weeks. Project ran slightly over schedule LOL
Rallye Project 
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